Certain restaurants are just like certain people: You know you’re gonna like them from the first moment you lay eyes on them. Gabbiano’s and I clicked right away thanks to its warm, bustling interior with hand-painted Italian fresco walls, a line cook pounding out chicken breasts for Parm in the back, and a “When you’re here, you’re family,” vibe that Olive Garden can only fake.

And I’m not alone in feeling that love. Open since January and run by Portland restaurant veterans David Sigal and Blake Foster, the Northeast Portland Italian American-inspired space is already boasting waits for its walk-in-only seating—even on a sleepy Wednesday. While decidedly East Coast red sauce in its overall approach, Gabbiano’s menu could please everyone from a picky kid to a picky traditionalist to a picky gourmand.