Just as many of us are making the transition from smartphones back to brick phones, there’s something to be said for going back to the old-school basics. That’s what chef Chase Dopson, whose résumé includes Toro Bravo, Bistro Agnes, and Jacqueline, is doing at his new Bologna-style pasta pop-up, Pastificio d’Oro, which he runs along with fiancé Maggie Irwin and softly opens September 13 at Gracie’s Apizza. 

Forget mixers and pasta rollers, even the old-school hand-crank type. Inspired by the pasta cookbook American Sfoglino, which he refers to as “an homage to mostly the women in Bologna who are professional pasta makers,” Dopson makes all his pasta by hand from start to finish. That means mixing and kneading the dough by hand, then rolling it out with a rolling pin like the Italian grandmas of yesteryear.