For all its applications in modern cuisine, balsamic vinegar remains vastly misunderstood. In Italy most products bearing the name are protected by a denomination of origin, regulating where and how it is produced. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP is the gold standard. Hailing exclusively from the Emilia-Romagna region, it is a reduction of Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes (the same variety used to make cognac) aged for a minimum of 12 years in a series of wooden casks.

The craft and patience going into each batch results in a liquid of intense complexity. Here in the United States, however, the overwhelming majority of bottles sold as 'balsamic' are actually just sweetened red wine vinegars. Every year we spend billions on this false standard, which couldn't even legally qualify as balsamic back in its native land.