The Italian government is launching infringement proceedings against Slovenia in an attempt to defend the authenticity of its famed, geographically protected balsamic vinegar.

Relations between the two countries turned sour last year when Slovenia notified the European Commission of its plans to “standardise” its vinegar production, essentially seeking to market any wine vinegar mixed with concentrated fruit juice or must as “balsamic vinegar”. The term aceto balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar of Modena) has been in place since 2009 and can be used only by producers in Modena and the Emilia-Romagna region.