Sometimes all you want is a practical, simple, down-to-earth plate of food. You’re not looking to be dazzled. You’re not needing to be wowed. And, goodness knows, you really don’t want to lug along a food dictionary to make out the menu.

Let others eat Lepre in Civet (according to my dictionary, that's hare stew) or Riso e Rane (risotto with frogs) tonight. You’re perfectly happy with penne alla vodka, chicken marsala or a roasted Chilean seabass with a splash of olive oil.