For centuries, green walnuts were collected around the Summer Solstice, and on June 24, for the feast of Saint John the Baptist, in preparation for an autumnal batch of the walnut liqueur. In the Middle Ages, the storied liqueur, known as “Nocino” in Italy, was often associated with women sorceresses who gathered the fruit by night and brewed the fruit into a healing liquid.

These days, the bright green nuts are quartered, then steeped in alcohol with spices. Recipes for home brews and restaurant batches abound. Last week, two West Coast restaurants tackled their own, just in time for the season.